![]() ![]() I’ve also included a couple of other images showing wiring and pin layouts that can help with this. A breadboard and JST connectors aren’t necessary but they can really help. Just take your time, making sure you correctly identify all the pins (they may not be in the order you expect) and you’ll get it. I’ve included a wiring diagram to wire up the Arduino Nano to the DRV8825 stepper motor driver and the driver to the stepper motor. Having extra balls in the queue helps ensure that the ball will be picked up every time. Also, I find that if there isn’t enough pressure behind the lowest ball, it may not be picked up by the lifting wheel. That stuck ball will get knocked loose the next time balls are returned to the queue. Having 2 or 3 extra balls ensures that even should one ball get stuck, there will still be one ready to be picked up by the lift. For this reason, I have suggested you use at least 30 balls, giving you a couple of extra balls in the ramp even when the clock reads 12:59. Despite my best efforts, I still find the last ball in the queue occasionally getting stuck. Take your time and make sure that you test it by lowering a ball VERY slowly behind your finger or a tool to make sure that there are no flat spots or bumps that will cause the ball to get stuck. If you don’t do this, balls may occasionally get stuck on the ramp. Once you’ve printed all of the parts and cleaned them up, you may want to take some time to sand the ramp on the base and make it as smooth as possible. I used PrusaSlicer’s adaptive printing layers feature and that worked well for me.Īll of the other parts can be printed using PLA with normal settings (perhaps 20% infill with 3 perimeters but really anything will probably do the trick.) WARNING! You will probably want to print the motor housing shell and back and the mounting hub in PETG (or ABS) because the small Nema 8 motor can run hot and I’ve had these motors get hot enough to deform PLA.Īlso, when you print the clock base (which can be printed in PLA), you are going to want to print at least the layers that make up the ramp using as low a layer hight as possible (for example 0.12mm) because if the ramp isn’t perfectly smooth, the little balls will occasionally get stuck on the ramp. I recommend printing on glass, particularly for the lift wheel, because you want the surface to be as flat and smooth as possible. ![]() Your build plate needs to be very level because too much skew in the prints can prevent the clock from working. None of these models should be printed with supports but it’s pretty important that your printer be reasonably well dialed in. * (Optional) JST connectors for the motor and the power leads. * (Optional) Mounting sockets for the Arduino and the stepper driver. * 1x 12v power supply with 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug (or equivalent) * 1x 5.5mm x 2.1mm DC power supply jack (or equivalent) * 1x Nema 8 (20x20x38mm) stepper motor (the shorter one lacks the necessary torque) * 1x DRV8825 stepper motor (or equivalent) This version has only a handful of models that need to be printed (all without supports) and the final assembly is pretty easy. I’ve seen and taken inspiration from other ball clocks (particularly 3Dadicto’s clock: ) but they all seemed larger and more complex than what I was going for. My goal was to create a ball clock that could be 3d printed relatively easily on an Ender 3 class 3d printer and assembled without too much fuss. (I put “simple” in quotes because designing this thing and perfecting it has been anything but simple.) ("24h-gear-2h-behind.stl" and "24h-gear-4h-behind.This is a “simple” 3d printed ball clock that uses 3/8” diameter steel bearings to count the time. You can also use modified version of "24h-gear.stl" to tune the timing of the calendar change with 2hours step. In this case, the calendar changes at around 4:30-5:00 in early morning. To avoid this problem, attach the main cam at the bottom ("24h-gear.stl") rotated 90 degrees CCW. You can see the motion at that time, however, it might be confusing at midnight. The calendar proceeds to the next day around 10:30-11:00 at night. Printable with relatively smaller printers including Prusa MINI (size of maximum part is 180 x 180mm).No bearings or metal shafts are used but works smoothly.Skeleton design to maximize the visibility of the mechanism.Easy calendar adjustment by direct manipulation of hands.The clock itself is driven electrically and more accurate than mechanical one. This clock has four sub-dials to show 24hours, month, date and day of the week.Mechanical perpetual calendar which is only seen on very expensive watches and clocks.It shows correct date up to 2099 without correction because it can handle all kind of month lengths including February of leap years. Perpetual calendar is one of the representative mechanism of complication clocks and watches. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |